Yes, a slightly unrelated photo, but I love it still. More at Flickr.
Where would you live in Dhaka if you could live anywhere you wanted? I want you to vote. Bee (pictured above) and I have been flat hunting in Dhaka’s numerous neighbourhoods.
At first we first strolled around in Lalmatia, and then peered into Dhanmondi from a rickshaw. We padded around Banani and did a cursory search of Gulshan. I even visited friends’ places in New Eskaton, Niketan and Mogh Bazar. We might make a decision tomorrow, but I need your opinion first. It’s a smart idea to ask you, my audience, what you think. I can’t believe I haven’t done it until now.
And what’s more important is that I’ve got a challenge. I will take this as a binding vote on where Bel and I should live. That’s right. If enough votes get together, and I get a strong opinion from my audience, I will follow that choice and write about it.
My favourite so far, is a flat we found in Banani DOHS, and if I had to choose now I would give it my vote. I first went to the neighbourhood with A a few months ago. She told me that it was hard to find flats in this area—but I remember distinctly liking it. There was atmosphere here, a quiet community that was upscale for Dhaka but not filled to the gills with expats and the bars and everything else. For instance, the construction is mostly finished in Old DOHS, where as in Lalmatia they’re always banging away in here. Are there other reasons it’s good/bad that I don’t know about?
We hung out with her friends and I had a blast. Their apartment was gorgeous, homely, and filled with the warmth of old friendship, even though I was new. We talked for hours. They were extraordinarily welcoming, and I made myself at home so quickly I crashed there for the night. In other words, complete strangers didn’t mind if I, the abrasive drunkard that I can be sometimes, went a little overboard? No, we had a great time, in fact. I hope I see those guys again some time.
My friend, I am having a great time in Bangladesh. Why?
I have now spent my 11 months in Lalmatia, and I am so close to it that I currently enjoy its 128 kbps connection in a wireless heaven—always during off hours in the office, of course. I wrote a previous article about how much I loved this neighbourhood and the charms it had. If I could stay, I would.
But that commute, that commute absolutely kills me. The pollution in this city is staggering. Everybody knows it. And they tell me it’s better than it used to be because of CNGs? That’s impressive. It must have been horrible before. The thing is, Bel has a job up there, and not a bad one either!!!
So, the commute she’s been doing has been manageable so far, but Allah, my mountain lungs need a little fresh air. That’s why I want to live near, but not in the expat “bubble” as it so famously known. I need to live near there so I don’t have to commute. Our health absolutely requires it.
That’s why I want to know what people think of Old DOHS. Is Baridhara DOHS a better idea? I know it is on price, but is it on value? The flat I’ve seen right now is a four-bedroom flat, charging 26,000 Tk per month, including service charge. We also looked at a furnished flat in Banani at 38,000 Tk. It’s just too expensive too.
Rezwan? Andrew? Julie? Do you guys have a better idea than I do about this? Probably! Am I absolutely nuts to move to the bubble? Or am I fighting too much to stay out of it?
Oh and one more thing.
I want to open a Dhaka Bed and Breakfast at the flat we found. The place had four bedrooms, and an enormous patio out front. It was open, airy and light coloured, not dark and hidden like Bengali restaurants. I could envision having both guests and friends in, with extraordinary service and a most delicious and healthy breakfast to start your day. The prices, just enough for us to break even, will be somewhere in the neighbourhood of $40-$50 dollars, cheaper, I might add, than the rates you expect at Lake Castle Hotel in Gulshan, and that’s $75. (Where all the UN people stay. It’s pretty damn nice. But we will offer more value AND make something utterly unique for Dhaka).
In my next installment, I’ll tell you why I think it’s a great business idea for Dhaka, and I don’t do it, somebody should!!! But first.. maybe you could tell me what you think of Old DOHS? Does it seem like an off-beat choice to you?
5 Responses and Counting...
Hi Mikey! I think the decision to live in a place depends on some points like how it is close to your workplace, neighborhood, proximity of groceries, infrastructures etc.
For example if you have office near Motijheel and you have to commute to Gulshan/Banani everyday then the long traffic jams will be boring. And for you security may be an important issue. Because at the time of political disturbances the diplomatic zones have added securities. I have read expat blogs that even at the time of curfew they could walk around their houses without problem.
For me the best place would be Dhanmondi or Eskaton. But I think Old DOHS/Banani is the perfect place for expats in Bangladesh for many reasons. Only you have disadvantage like the rent is way high, lack of public transport and you miss the buzz, noise, flavor and crowd of real Dhaka.
However for your bed and breakfast initiative a quieter and secured place like Old DOHS/Banani is the best option me thinks.
yeesh. you have probably made a decision by now and i will be interested to hear what it is. you know as a non-’bubble’-ite, I’m biased — and the bias is towards staying out of the bubble. Rezwan’s post above says it all I think ‘you miss the yadda yadda yadda of REAL DHAKA.’
that said, if i had to commute everyday i might lose my mind. or become a master of meditation…
in short, i have zero help to offer!
Hey Mikey!
Thanks for commenting on my blog – I’ve blogrolled you and linked to your site.
I’ve been looking around for places to rent and buy in Dhaka myself (on behalf of my parents who want to have a place to stay when they visit other than at the relatives). I’m rather fond of Baridhara (not Baridhara DOHS – although that was pretty good too from what I saw when I was there). Next I would say Gulshan. But those are both expat heavy locations.
And yeah, the air is MUCH better in Dhaka than it was before the CNGs. My God – I just choke when I remember it. It wasn’t just that I wasn’t used to it – seeing passengers on Rickshaws with a cloth to cover their mouth (or a mask) was a common site then. When we would come visit from abroad – we would use the A/C in a car in the hopes that it would make the air slightly more breathable. Walking on the streets would be unthinkable – but I do so now without a second thought.
Oh and Rezwan is right – the security zones for expats do have its benefits. During the curfews I was able to have strolls in the Baridhara diplomatic zone as I was staying with a relative who lived there. Although once I got to the edge of the security zone I got a bit of grief for carrying my camera (as to be expected I suppose).
Thanks for all your suggestions guys… as it turns out I’ve found a low-priced housesit in Gulshan that was pretty hard to turn down! A massive apartment at a decent price…
and just today somebody else contacted me about another house sit… it seems these are around if you are willing to be migratory and people get to know you.
Hey Mikey! Been following your blog for a few weeks. My husband and I will be staying in Dhaka for about 6 weeks (late Oct-early Dec). We’re Americans living in the Netherlands. My husband is a water engineering student and will be doing research in Dhaka, and I’m a student of Phil and Religion/writer. Any leads on those house-sits you mentioned? If not, can you recommend any guest houses? We’re totally open to roughing it, but I need a decent internet connection as I’m currently in online courses. Thanks!